Cruising post

Cruising from Mobile to Demopolis, Alabama

We departed Turner Marine in Mobile and traveled north aboard Hunky Dory through Mobile Bay, then followed the Black Warrior–Tombigbee Waterway—first up the Mobile River and then the Tombigbee River—to Demopolis, where the Tennessee–Tombigbee Waterway begins, a total of 231 statute miles.

A calm river framed by wooded banks along Hunky Dory’s route from Mobile to Demopolis
A calm, wooded stretch of water along Hunky Dory’s route from Mobile to Demopolis.

Preparing for the Trip North

Hunky Dory had been at Turner Marine in Mobile, and it was time to begin moving her north. The first portion of that trip would take us from Mobile to Demopolis along the lower Mobile and Tombigbee river system.

A friend of mine, Jerry, joined me on the boat to help with this part of the trip. Before leaving, I stocked the boat with food and supplies and checked the oil in the transmissions and generators. I left my car parked at the marina so I could retrieve it after reaching Demopolis.

Fueling at Dog River and Leaving Mobile

We started the engines at approximately 6:50 am and headed to the fuel dock at Dog River Marina. At around 7:30, we added 125 gallons of diesel to each tank, which, when added to the existing fuel, brought our total fuel level up to around 600 gallons—certainly enough to make the trip with ample reserves.

Turner Marine’s waterfront building and sailboat docks on Dog River
Turner Marine on Dog River near the entrance to Mobile Bay.

After fueling, we departed Dog River at approximately 8:30 am. The morning took us through the relatively open water of Mobile Bay into the busier industrial waterfront.

Hunky Dory’s wake and American flag viewed from the stern while crossing Mobile Bay
Traveling through Mobile Bay after leaving Dog River.

Mobile’s working waterfront is a noticeable contrast to the quieter stretches ahead. Commercial vessels, shipyards, docks, bridges, and industrial facilities eventually gave way to wooded riverbanks and winding channels.

A large tanker moored along Mobile’s industrial waterfront
Large tankers lined the working waterfront as we made our way through Mobile.
Downtown Mobile skyline and waterfront seen from Hunky Dory
Mobile’s skyline and convention center near River Mile 0, where Black Warrior–Tombigbee mileage begins and increases northbound.

Anchoring in the Tensaw River

We continued north until midafternoon, then turned into the Tensaw River and traveled about a mile away from the Mobile River. At approximately 3:45 pm, we anchored in about 10 feet of water, which gave us about 4 feet beneath the keel.

I let out approximately 100 feet of anchor chain and attached the snubber so the pull on the chain remained closer to the water. A fairly strong current was flowing from the Mobile River into the Tensaw, keeping Hunky Dory pointed steadily in one direction, although there was plenty of room to swing.

Hunky Dory’s bow and anchor gear facing a quiet, tree-lined stretch of the Tensaw River
Hunky Dory anchored in the Tensaw River.

Later that evening, the starboard generator stopped producing electrical power. It had been carrying a substantial load, including two CruiseAir systems, two stove burners, and possibly both engine-room battery chargers. I suspected we might have overloaded it.

I looked for a tripped breaker or fuse but could not find one. When I tried restarting the generator about an hour later, it turned over but did not seem to be getting combustion. Fortunately, we still had the port generator available for the remainder of the trip.

Despite the current—and what was probably a changing tide—Hunky Dory remained in the same position throughout the night. The boat was still pointing in the same direction the next morning, giving us confidence that the anchor had held securely.

Shallow Water at Sunflower Bend

We started the engines, pulled up a surprisingly clean anchor, and left the Tensaw River for the Mobile River northbound at approximately 6:25 am, running the port generator while underway. Hunky Dory traveled at around nine miles per hour for most of the day.

One of the more demanding parts of the trip came at Sunflower Bend near mile marker 78. Dredging was underway because of shallow water in the channel. Commercial traffic could be given access through a wider portion of the work area, but pleasure boats had to pass through a very narrow route marked by yellow caution buoys.

We radioed the dredge before entering but did not receive a response. From what we could see, the crew appeared to be having lunch.

With only about two feet of water beneath Hunky Dory’s keel, we carefully followed the narrow marked path. It was one of those passages where the depth sounder received nearly as much attention as the river ahead.

Once clear of Sunflower Bend, we continued toward Coffeeville Lock.

Coffeeville Lock and Bobby’s Fish Camp

We reached Coffeeville Lock (MM 116.6) at approximately 4:00 pm. A tow was preparing to transit, so we waited for about an hour before entering the chamber. We finally departed the lock at approximately 5:45 pm.

A towboat pushing loaded barges at close range on a narrow stretch of river
Narrow areas on the river get a little dicey when passing tows.

Bobby’s Fish Camp (MM 118.9) on the Tombigbee River in Alabama was only a short distance beyond the lock, and we arrived there at around 6:00 pm.

Bobby’s has long been an important stopping place for boats traveling this part of the river. Its dock space is limited, however, and fitting several large cruising boats along it can require some cooperation.

Hunky Dory tied alongside the small dock at Bobby’s Fish Camp
Hunky Dory docked at Bobby’s Fish Camp.

After securing Hunky Dory, Jerry and I went to the restaurant for dinner. While we were eating, we learned that Hunky Dory needed to be moved forward along the dock so a much larger boat could fit behind us. We returned to the boat, moved her ahead, and made room for the new arrival.

The larger boat was a 75-foot vessel named She’s the One. We met Scotty and Gerry, who were delivering it. During dinner, Jerry discovered that he knew Gerry’s family from Tarpon Springs. It was one of those unexpected connections that seem to happen frequently among people moving boats along the inland waterways.

After the long day, the meal at Bobby’s and the conversations with the other crew made for a memorable evening. The unusual docking arrangement—moving Hunky Dory in the middle of dinner so a 75-foot boat could squeeze in behind us—made the stop even more memorable.

The Final Day to Demopolis

Before leaving Bobby’s the next morning, I checked the main-engine oil. Both engines were at approximately the halfway point on their dipsticks, so I added oil to bring them back to full. I also checked the fuel levels.

We started up and departed Bobby’s at around 6:15 am, again running the port generator.

A cruising boat following Hunky Dory north on the tree-lined Tombigbee River
Traveling north on the Tombigbee River toward Demopolis.

This was another long day underway. We followed the winding river north toward Demopolis, eventually arriving at Demopolis Lock at approximately 4:30 pm. Our timing was much better than it had been at Coffeeville. We waited only about 15 minutes before locking through.

Hunky Dory approaching the open chamber of Demopolis Lock
Hunky Dory entering the lock at Demopolis.

After clearing the lock, we continued to Kingfisher Bay Marina (MM 217) and arrived at approximately 5:20 pm. That completed the Mobile-to-Demopolis trip. In total, we traveled approximately 231 statute miles by water, ran the main engines for about 31 hours, and burned an estimated 250 gallons of diesel fuel since leaving Turner Marine in Mobile.

Hunky Dory secured in a slip at Kingfisher Bay Marina in Demopolis
Hunky Dory docked at Kingfisher Bay Marina in Demopolis, Alabama.

That evening, Jerry and I joined Scotty and Gerry—the crew delivering She’s the One—for dinner at Foscue House Restaurant. The steakhouse was very good and provided a comfortable ending to several long days on the river.

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